Buon Giorno! This is an "after the fact" type blog, meaning that Ken and I really want to share all our incredible memories from Italy with friends and family, however the compilation is occurring after our return.
By the way, Il Viaggio Italiana means Our Italian Journey. And what a journey it was! The adventure began in Rome and from Rome we traveled through Tuscany by car. After Tuscany we made our way to the Cinque Terre and then onto Florence, completing our trip back in Rome.
Our trip was amazing....from the ruins of ancient Rome to Renaissance paintings or a perfectly crafted bowl of pasta, we will cherish each of these experiences our entire lives. Please read on to get a glimpse into some of our most memorable vacation experiences.
Italia
Our journey starts in Rome
Roma!
Due to the fact that Ken and I took nearly 300 photos just in Rome, I've attempted to narrow down the photo pool. There are still lots of photos, though, I apologize. Rome has way too many incredible sights to skimp on the photos!
Our first jet lagged day was spent touring the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum. It was probably the hottest day we experienced in Italy and we were cranky and tired. But still we were amazed by the sheer size of the Colosseum and the incredible remains of ancient Roman life.
Our first jet lagged day was spent touring the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum. It was probably the hottest day we experienced in Italy and we were cranky and tired. But still we were amazed by the sheer size of the Colosseum and the incredible remains of ancient Roman life.
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| Caesar Forum |
Many of you know that we were super excited about the food. Ken believes I was a fat Italian man in my former life as I ate non-stop the entire trip. Of course, we did earn these meals with all the walking we logged. For our first dinner in Italy we popped into a random Trattoria near the Spanish Steps. Jackpot! It was incredible. I never liked cured meats but the Prosciutto in Italy is pretty dang amazing! And do I even have to mention how incredible the pasta was?!?
To start our second day in Rome we visited the Borghese Gallery. We saw incredible artwork by Bernini, Caravaggio, Rubens, Raphael and Titian. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to photograph the artwork but you can see my favorite piece from the Borghese on the left side of the blog: Apollo and Daphne by Bernini. The intricate details of this statue are incredible.
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| Entrance to the Borghese Gallery |
That evening we strolled over to the Trevi Fountain. What a hang out spot! It's insanely crowded but understandably so. The fountain is a peaceful retreat within the center of a bustling city.
Day number three and we're off to the Vatican. The Vatican gallery was nice and quiet but once we got on the path towards the Sistine Chapel we were a bunch of cattle being herded! Nonetheless, the journey to the Sistine Chapel was just as amazing as the Chapel itself. We were able to snap some photos of the journey, but regrettably photography is not allowed in the Chapel.
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| Another favorite sculpture, one of Bernini's crumbling angels |
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| The hallway of maps...your eyes aren't deceiving you, the entire ceiling is covered in framed paintings. And this hallway was probably as long as a football field! |
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| This is a wall in the Raphael room (obviously, painted by Raphael) of the Vatican. Every inch of these Vatican ceremony rooms were covered in some type of artwork, even the floor which had detailed mosaics. |
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| Fountain in St. Peter's Square |
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| St. Peter's Basilica |
Our evening stroll led us to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. While the Pantheon is not the prettiest sight in Rome, its historical value is intriguing. The Pantheon has the most well preserved Roman Temple interior. This building was originally built as a temple to all the gods but is now a Catholic church.
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| The domed ceiling of the Pantheon |
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| Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona |
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| Piazza Navona |
Next stop...Tuscany!
Bella Toscana!
Beautiful Tuscany! It was prettier than we imagined; photos and movies that include this landscape don't do it justice! Our Tuscan tour began at the Rome Termini station (main train station). Lucky for Ken, he was nominated to be our driver. If you thought Californians were crazy drivers (no offense, Laura), guess again! Romans are berserk! Lanes? What lanes? Red lights? They don't exist! And forget about using the turn signal! It's craziness! Not only are you dodging other vehicles, there are pedestrians everywhere. Poor Ken almost experienced his first vehicular homicide when a stupid tourist (because we're driving in Rome we immediately receive local status) walked out into the road without looking!
Once we got out of Rome driving was pretty smooth. Ken really liked our rental, the Fiat 300, and is thinking of trading his Acura in for one. Not a lot of leg room, but fun to zip that thing around curvy Tuscan roads. Although, it was pretty embarrassing being passed on the freeway by the SmartCar.
Our first stop was Montepulciano. We had some great inside information on places to eat there (thanks to the niece of a friend in Tallahassee). We LOVED Montepulciano and have already pegged it as a must for our next Italian trip (should that ever happen!). The town is surrounded by rolling hills of vineyards and it is very quiet and quaint. Completely opposite of Rome!
After pigging out and exploring a bit of the town we piled back in the car and headed to Pienza, a small town just about 20 km away from Montepulciano. Much smaller than our first stop, but just as aesthetically pleasing!
Once we got out of Rome driving was pretty smooth. Ken really liked our rental, the Fiat 300, and is thinking of trading his Acura in for one. Not a lot of leg room, but fun to zip that thing around curvy Tuscan roads. Although, it was pretty embarrassing being passed on the freeway by the SmartCar.
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| Mario Andretti aka Ken behind the wheel of our Tuscan rental |
Our first stop was Montepulciano. We had some great inside information on places to eat there (thanks to the niece of a friend in Tallahassee). We LOVED Montepulciano and have already pegged it as a must for our next Italian trip (should that ever happen!). The town is surrounded by rolling hills of vineyards and it is very quiet and quaint. Completely opposite of Rome!
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| Montepulciano |
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| Wine Country! |
We ate lunch at Osteria del Borgo. Breath taking! There was an outdoor portion of the restaurant which overlooked the vineyards. I don't think Ken and I held a conversation during this lunch as our gaze was fixed on the views. We sat for over an hour eating and drinking our Vino Nobile (delicious wine of Montepulciano) while absorbing the amazing surroundings. Oh, forgot to mention the food was delicious as well!
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| Lasagna (not as we know it) with Ragu sauce |
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| Cannelloni with Ragu sauce |
After pigging out and exploring a bit of the town we piled back in the car and headed to Pienza, a small town just about 20 km away from Montepulciano. Much smaller than our first stop, but just as aesthetically pleasing!
From Pienza we ventured on to our final Tuscan destination: Volterra. Volterra is a little more lively than Montepulciano and Pienza, but not as frantic as Rome. We spent two nights in this town with a full day in between. It took an entire day just to wander through all the nooks and crannies of this cute little hilltop town. I'm sure you are all wondering about the food...we experienced the best food of the entire trip in Volterra. As well as the tiniest shower in all of Italy!
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| Ruins of a Roman amphitheater just below the city wall |
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| City wall (amphitheater is just below to the right) |
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| Incredible, vibrant frescoes on a church ceiling |
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| Clock tower at sunset from the roof-top balcony of our hotel |
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| Stuffed pigeon with olives and pureed potatoes from amazing Enoteca del Duca |
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| Spinach and ricotta gnocchi with a butter cream sauce and slivered truffle also from Enoteca del Duca |
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| Chocolate Souffle at Enoteca del Duca |
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| Italy's (and most possibly the world's) smallest shower |
Cinque Terre Mozzafiato
The Cinque Terre (Five Lands) region is breath-taking and to say we captured the beauty in its entirety through our photos would be unfair. All the towns are unique and we chose to make our home base in Vernazza, the fourth of the five towns. Vernazza is a good mix of local and tourist. In my opinion we met the friendliest Italians in this city.
Vernazza has the only natural harbor of the five cities and is tucked in between steep coastal mountains that are speckled with vineyards. It's amazing how locals have learned to live with the rugged landscape. When we first arrived it seemed that everyone takes the afternoon off to sun-bathe on the tiny beach or lounge along the cement pier. Along the water could be considered the town center it's so popular!
Our first night we fell into the dining tourist trap, eating at a restaurant near the top of the fort. While the food was mediocre and the service awful, the view was incredible.
We began each morning by eating pastries at The Pirate Cafe, which is run by Mossimo. He loves Americans and is real good at B.S.ing. Mossimo had Ken believing that his brother lived in Florida. Until one morning Ken asked in what city to which Mossimo replied, "Orlando. You probably know him, Micky Mouse". While Mossimo liked to tease, it was obvious the guy knew how to bake!
The next morning we started our first hike. The Cinque Terre is a large national park which has rugged hiking trails that run through the mountains linking all five towns. Our first hike was from Vernazza to Monterosso (the fifth town). We weren't quite prepared for these type of hiking trails! Stairways leading straight up, one way paths, and treacherous downhills is what we encountered. The trail was busy with hikers of all age, so apparently the risk of falling off a cliff into the Lingurian Sea is worth it! And I'll admit, it was hard work but worth the battle!
After the two hour hike to Monterosso we were famished. We set up camp at a beach side Cafe and had our first taste of Italian Focaccia bread. Incredible! The most delicious sandwiches we have ever eaten in our lives! Of course at that point we probably would have eaten cardboard, but these sandwiches were "Da Bomb"! After lunch we hit the beach for a little sunbathing. We've been a little spoiled with the Florida Gulf coast beaches because this beach was pebbly and the water was COLD! By the way, Italians (and possibly most Europeans) are not timid when it comes to stripping down. We weren't on a nude beach but that didn't really matter to some people.
After lounging for an hour we mosied into Old Town Monterosso and then over to the more ritzy part of town, New Monterosso. Of all five towns, Monterosso is most well known as the vacation town with the best beaches.
There was no way we were going back to Vernazza the way we came so we took a boat back. It was a quick five minute ride with great views!
That night we decided to eat local specialities: seafood and pesto. For those who know mine and Ken's palates, I'm sure you can pick who ate which plate of food!
Our second day in Cinque Terre and we're off on a hike to the next town, Corniglia (third of the five towns). The distance between these two was shorter than the day before but steeper and just as much work! But as the prior day, work was rewarded with beautiful views.
We didn't have enough time to hike through all the towns so we caught a train from Corniglia to Manarola and then walked the via dell'amore (the lovers walk) to Riomaggiore. There is an interesting history behind this walk. Before the towns were connected by train there was no way to get from town to town and usually people were stuck marrying someone from their hometown. A trail was made connecting Manarola with Riomaggiore. People would walk this trail to meet their lover in the middle. As a symbol of "locking in their love" people now place padlocks at the mid-way point of this trail.
For our final meal in the Cinque Terre we hopped the train to Monterosso. The food was great and we were in good company. Met a nice couple who, of all places, were from Lynnwood, WA. It really is a small world!
Arrivederci Cinque Terre! Buon giorno Firenze!
Vernazza has the only natural harbor of the five cities and is tucked in between steep coastal mountains that are speckled with vineyards. It's amazing how locals have learned to live with the rugged landscape. When we first arrived it seemed that everyone takes the afternoon off to sun-bathe on the tiny beach or lounge along the cement pier. Along the water could be considered the town center it's so popular!
Our first night we fell into the dining tourist trap, eating at a restaurant near the top of the fort. While the food was mediocre and the service awful, the view was incredible.
We began each morning by eating pastries at The Pirate Cafe, which is run by Mossimo. He loves Americans and is real good at B.S.ing. Mossimo had Ken believing that his brother lived in Florida. Until one morning Ken asked in what city to which Mossimo replied, "Orlando. You probably know him, Micky Mouse". While Mossimo liked to tease, it was obvious the guy knew how to bake!
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| An Apple Pastry |
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| Cream filled Croissant |
The next morning we started our first hike. The Cinque Terre is a large national park which has rugged hiking trails that run through the mountains linking all five towns. Our first hike was from Vernazza to Monterosso (the fifth town). We weren't quite prepared for these type of hiking trails! Stairways leading straight up, one way paths, and treacherous downhills is what we encountered. The trail was busy with hikers of all age, so apparently the risk of falling off a cliff into the Lingurian Sea is worth it! And I'll admit, it was hard work but worth the battle!
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| Vernazza's Harbor |
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| Vernazza and the Fort |
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| Vernazza |
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| Ken with Vernazza in the background |
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| Hillside vineyard with Monterosso in background |
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| Old Town Monterosso |
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| The beach in Old Town Monterosso |
After the two hour hike to Monterosso we were famished. We set up camp at a beach side Cafe and had our first taste of Italian Focaccia bread. Incredible! The most delicious sandwiches we have ever eaten in our lives! Of course at that point we probably would have eaten cardboard, but these sandwiches were "Da Bomb"! After lunch we hit the beach for a little sunbathing. We've been a little spoiled with the Florida Gulf coast beaches because this beach was pebbly and the water was COLD! By the way, Italians (and possibly most Europeans) are not timid when it comes to stripping down. We weren't on a nude beach but that didn't really matter to some people.
After lounging for an hour we mosied into Old Town Monterosso and then over to the more ritzy part of town, New Monterosso. Of all five towns, Monterosso is most well known as the vacation town with the best beaches.
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| Buildings of Old Town Monterosso |
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| A church in Old Town Monterosso |
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| New Monterosso |
There was no way we were going back to Vernazza the way we came so we took a boat back. It was a quick five minute ride with great views!
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| Vineyards that cling to the rocky mountainside |
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| Vernazza from afar |
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| Vernazza as we come into port with vineyards in the background |
That night we decided to eat local specialities: seafood and pesto. For those who know mine and Ken's palates, I'm sure you can pick who ate which plate of food!
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| Seafood Spaghetti |
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| Fresh pesto with handmade pasta |
Our second day in Cinque Terre and we're off on a hike to the next town, Corniglia (third of the five towns). The distance between these two was shorter than the day before but steeper and just as much work! But as the prior day, work was rewarded with beautiful views.
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| View of the south side of Vernazza and the fort |
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| Vernazza |
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| This is the hiking path and yes, the cliff down to the water is right next to the path! |
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| Kendra near the hiking path cliff |
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| Awesome view! |
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| Ken going all artsy photographer on me! |
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| Town of Corniglia |
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| Hillside vineyard in Corniglia |
We didn't have enough time to hike through all the towns so we caught a train from Corniglia to Manarola and then walked the via dell'amore (the lovers walk) to Riomaggiore. There is an interesting history behind this walk. Before the towns were connected by train there was no way to get from town to town and usually people were stuck marrying someone from their hometown. A trail was made connecting Manarola with Riomaggiore. People would walk this trail to meet their lover in the middle. As a symbol of "locking in their love" people now place padlocks at the mid-way point of this trail.
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| Backside of Manarola |
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| All the love that's been "locked-in" on the Via Dell'Amore |
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| A view of Manarola and the rail line from Via Dell'Amore |
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| Ken and the Via Dell'Amore |
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| Fantastic view with Riomaggiore in the background |
For our final meal in the Cinque Terre we hopped the train to Monterosso. The food was great and we were in good company. Met a nice couple who, of all places, were from Lynnwood, WA. It really is a small world!
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| Ken's second round of seafood pasta...this one with a little more variety (yes, those purple things are baby octopus!) |
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| Ravioli with ragu sauce |
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| An interesting ice cream dessert with a "chocolate heart" |
Arrivederci Cinque Terre! Buon giorno Firenze!
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